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Meridian Striped Pullover

By: Marie Greene, excerpted from Seamless Knit Sweaters in 2 Weeks
Meridian Striped Pullover

Your favorite, much-loved sweatshirt has a new rival: Meridian. This casual, sporty pullover features a relaxed fit in the body, wide stripes on the sleeves and twisted stitch ribbing for visual interest. It’s a relatively mindless project, thanks to its endless stockinette stitch worked in the round, that results in a comfortable, wearable sweater for casual days. Confession: I’ve been known to pair this sweater with yoga pants and call it good; it’s that cozy.

TIMELINE
With little to no technical components to navigate and only a couple of quick color changes, Meridian’s primary time consumption comes from sheer volume of stitches in the long body and sleeves, making it more approachable for long stretches of knitting at home. If you can get into a groove with few interruptions, you’ll find this an achievable knit in 10 to 12 days. Stockinette stitch worked in the round tends to be the quickest and most efficient stitch for most knitters, which lends itself to a quicker project overall.

Gauge: 18 st and 25 rows with larger needle over 4” (10 cm) in stockinette stitch

Materials List

Yarn: DK | Knitted Wit Polwarth Shimmer DK | 85% Polwarth wool, 15% silk | 330 yards (302 m) per 115 g | MC: 845 yards (939, 1141, 1255, 1405, 1573) (773 m [859, 1043, 1148, 1285, 1438]) | CC: 50–65 yards (45–59 m)

Yarn Notes: Worked in hand-dyed, non-superwash Polwarth silk, your sweater should have light drape, medium sheen and a relaxed fit. Take care to work your swatch with both colors, and wet block to check colorfastness before you begin.

Needles
• U.S. size 7/4.5 mm (24–32” [60–80 cm]) circular needle (body)
• U.S. size 7/4.5 mm (12” [30 cm]) circular needle (sleeves)
• U.S. size 6/4 mm (24–32” [60–80 cm]) circular needle (lower body ribbing)
• U.S. size 5/3.75 mm (12” [30 cm]) circular needle (sleeve cuf)
• U.S. size 5/3.75 mm (16–24” [40–60 cm]) circular needle (neckline)

Note: Use needle size necessary to obtain gauge.

Notions
Yarn needle
Stitch markers
​​​​​​​Waste yarn

STITCH GLOSSARY

Bet: between
BOR: beginning of round/row
CC: contrast color
CO: cast on
Dec: decrease
Ea: each
Inc: increase
K: knit
Ktbl: knit st through back loop
k2tog: knit 2 st at once (dec 1)
m: marker/markers
MC: main color
mX: marker “X” indicates which marker (i.e, mA, mB, mC, etc.)
M1L: make one st that leans left (inc 1)
M1R: make one st that leans right (inc 1)
P: purl
pmX: place marker, “X” indicates which marker (i.e, pmA, pmB, pmC, etc.)
rem m: remove marker
rep: repeat
rs: right side
sm: slip marker/markers
smX: slip marker, “X” indicates which marker (i.e, smA, smB, smC, etc.)
ssk: slip, slip, knit together (dec 1)
st: stitch/stitches
ws: wrong side
[ ]: brackets always indicate a repeat

  1. SIZES
    Bust sizes 30/32” (34/36, 38/40, 42/44, 46/48, 50/52) (76/81 cm [86/91, 97/102, 107/112, 117/122, 127/132])

  2. RECOMMENDED EASE
    Positive ease is included for a comfortable fit. See finished measurements for final ease as compared to your actual bust measurement. If you are between sizes, refer to the final measurements to determine which size to choose. In many cases you’ll find that the smaller of the two sizes will be the best choice.

  3. CONSTRUCTION
    Meridian is worked back and forth at the beginning until the neck shaping is established. The sweater is joined in the round at the completion of the neck shaping and worked top-down to the hem. The sleeves and neckline ribbing are worked last.

  4. NOTE: Rows and rounds apply to all sizes unless otherwise indicated. Be sure to read ahead and mark sections that are specific to your size before you begin.

  5. TIP FOR WORKING WITH TWO COLORS: Working with more than one color can have unpredictable results, depending on the yarn and colorway. Take care to work your swatch with both colors, and wet block the swatch to check for color-fastness before you begin.

MERIDIAN PATTERN

With U.S. size 7/4.5 mm (24–32” [60–80 cm]) circular needle and MC, cast on 35 (45, 67, 71, 75, 85) st using cable cast-on method. Do not join.

  1. ROW 1 – SET UP (RS): K2, pmA, kfb, k0 (2, 8, 8, 10, 12), kfb, pmB, kfb, k25 (31, 41, 45, 45, 51), kfb, pmC, kfb, k0 (2, 8, 8, 10, 12), kfb, pmD, k2 (6 st inc).

    ROW 2 (WS): P across, slipping m as you go.

    SIZE 30/32 ONLY ROW 3 (RS): K2, smA, K1, M1L, k2, M1R, k1, smB, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mC, M1R, k2, smC, k1, M1L, k 2, M1R, k1, smD, k2 (6 st inc).

    SIZES 34/36, 38/40, 42/44, 46/48, 50/52 ROW 3 (RS): K2, smA, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mB, M1R, k2, smB, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mC, M1R, k2, smC, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mD, M1R, k2, smD, k2 (6 st inc).

    All sizes continue.

    ROW 4 (WS): P across, slipping m as you go.

    ROW 5 (RS): K1, M1R, k1, smA, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mB, M1R, k2, smB, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mC, M1R, k2, smC, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mD, M1R, k2, smD, k1, M1L, k to end (8 st inc).

    ROW 6 (WS): P across, slipping m as you go.

    ROW 7 (RS): CO 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 1) st using knitted cast-on worked tightly*, k to 2 st before mA, M1R, k2, smA, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mB, M1R, k2, smB, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mC, M1R, k2, smC, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mD, M1R, k2, smD, k2, M1L, k to end (8 st inc + CO).

    ROW 8 (WS): CO 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 1) st using knitted cast-on worked purlwise*, p across row (including newly cast-on st), slipping m as you go.

  2. *GOING FORWARD, all stitches cast-on on the right side will be worked using the knitted cast-on method, and all stitches cast-on on the wrong side will be worked using the knitted cast-on worked purlwise. Always knit the new stitch/es on the right side and purl the new stitch/es on the wrong side as you work through the row.

    ROW 9 (RS): CO 0 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) st, k to 2 st before mA, M1R, k2, smA, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mB, M1R, k2, smB, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mC, M1R, k2, smC, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mD, M1R, k2, smD, k2, M1L, k to end (8 st inc + CO).

    ROW 10 (WS): CO 0 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) st, p across row, slipping m as you go.

  3. STITCH COUNT CHECK-IN
    FRONTS (EA): 5 (6, 6, 6, 6, 7)
    SLEEVES (EA): 12 (14, 20, 20, 22, 24)
    BACK: 37 (43, 53, 57, 57, 63)

  4. ROW 11 (RS): CO 0 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2) st, k to 2 st before mA, M1R, k2, smA, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mB, M1R, k2, smB, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mC, M1R, k2, smC, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mD, M1R, k2, smD, k2, M1L, k to end (8 st inc + CO).

    ROW 12 (WS): CO 0 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2) st and p across row, slipping m as you go.

    ROW 13 (RS): CO 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 4) st, k to 2 st before mA, M1R, k2, smA, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mB, M1R, k2, smB, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mC, M1R, k2, smC, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mD, M1R, k2, smD, k2, M1L, k to end (8 st inc + CO).

    ROW 14 (WS): CO 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 4) st and p across row, slipping m as you go.

    ROW 15 (RS): CO 1 (2, 4, 4, 4, 4) st, k to 2 st before mA, M1R, k2, smA, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mB, M1R, k2, smB, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mC, M1R, k2, smC, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mD, M1R, k2, smD, k2, M1L, k to end (8 st inc + CO).

    ROW 16 (WS): CO 1 (2, 4, 4, 4, 4) st and p across row, slipping m as you go.

    ROW 17 (RS): CO 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6) st, k to 2 st before mA, M1R, k2, smA, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mB, M1R, k2, smB, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mC, M1R, k2, smC, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mD, M1R, k2, smD, k2, M1L, k to end (8 st inc + CO).

    ROW 18 (WS): CO 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6) st and p across row, slipping m as you go.

    ROW 19 (RS): CO 15 (15, 17, 17, 17, 17) st, k to 2 st before mA, M1R, k2, smA, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mB, M1R, k2, smB, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mC, M1R, k2, smC, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mD, M1R, k2, smD, k2, M1L, k to end (8 st inc + CO). Cut yarn, leaving a tail.

  5. STITCH COUNT CHECK-IN
    FRONT: 47 (53, 63, 67, 67, 73)
    SLEEVES (EA): 22 (24, 30, 30, 32, 34)
    BACK: 47 (53, 63, 67, 67, 73)

NECKLINE JOIN: Rejoin yarn just after mD, leaving a tail to weave in later. This marks the new BOR. Slide the stitches after mD to the left needle so they “meet” with the other stitches on the front section (all stitches between mD and mA are now the “front”). Knit across, joining the front stitches as you reach the gap (be careful not to twist stitches) and knit to end of round.

  1. NEXT ROUND (INC): At BOR, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mA, M1R, k2, smA, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mB, M1R, k2, smB, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mC, M1R, k2, smC, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mD, M1R, k2 (8 st inc).

    NEXT ROUND (NO INC): K the round, slipping m as you go.

    NEXT ROUND (NO INC): K the round, slipping m as you go.

  2. REP these two rounds until you have the following number of stitches:

    STITCH COUNT CHECK-IN
    FRONT: 79 (87, 97, 101, 99, 105)
    SLEEVES (EA): 54 (58, 64, 64, 64, 66)
    BACK: 79 (87, 97, 101, 99, 105)

  3. NEXT ROUND (EXTRA INC): K2, M1L, k2, M1L, k to 4 st before mA, M1R, k2, M1R, k2, smA, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mB, M1R, k2, smB, k2, M1L, k2, M1L, k to 4 st before mC, M1R, k2, M1R, k2, smC, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mD, M1R, k2 (12 st inc).

    NEXT ROUND (NO INC): K the round, slipping m as you go.

  4. REP these two rounds 0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 1) more times. You should have the following number of stitches:

    STITCH COUNT CHECK-IN
    FRONT: 83 (91, 101, 105, 107, 113)
    SLEEVES (EA): 56 (60, 66, 66, 68, 70)
    BACK: 83 (91, 101, 105, 107, 113)

  5. SIZES 30/32, 34/36, 38/40 Move ahead to Divide for Sleeves.

    SIZES 42/44, 46/48, 50/52 NEXT ROUND (DOUBLE EXTRA INC): K2, M1L, k2, M1L, k2, M1L, k to 6 st before mA, M1R, k2, M1R, k2, M1R, k2, smA, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mB, M1R, k2, smB, k2, M1L, k2, M1L, k2, M1L, k to 6 st before mC, M1R, k2, M1R, k2, M1R, k2, smC, k2, M1L, k to 2 st before mD, M1R, k2 (16 st inc).

  6. NEXT ROUND (NO INC): K the round, slipping m as you go.

    SIZES 42/44, 46/48, 50/52 Rep the above two rounds 0 (1, 1) times. Then move ahead to Divide for Sleeves.

    STITCH COUNT CHECK-IN
    FRONT: 83 (91, 101, 111, 119, 125)
    SLEEVES (EA): 56 (60, 66, 68, 72, 74)
    BACK: 83 (91, 101, 111, 119, 125)

  7. DIVIDE FOR SLEEVES: K across front to mA, rem mA and place sleeve stitches onto waste yarn (loosely, so you can try it on later). CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 4, 6) st underarm and join to back section, removing mB in the process. K to mC and rem mC, then place sleeve stitches onto waste yarn (loosely, so you can try it on later). CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 4, 6) st underarm and join to front, removing mD in the process and replacing it at the center of the underarm; mD now denotes BOR.

  8. STITCH COUNT CHECK-IN
    170 (186, 206, 226, 246, 262) st in lower body

  9. LOWER BODY: Knit the lower body in stockinette stitch in the round until body measures 14.5” (36.8 cm) from underarm. Transition to U.S. size 6/4 mm (24–32” [60–80 cm]) circular needle—or one size smaller than that used for the body—on next round and knit one round on the smaller needle. AT THE SAME TIME, decrease 2 (3, 2, 1, 0, 4) st somewhat evenly using k2tog to end with a multiple of 3. Begin lower ribbing as follows: [p2, ktbl] repeat between brackets to end of round. Repeat this round until ribbing measures 2.5” (6.4 cm). Bind of with medium tension in pattern. Note: Bottom edge should not feel tight or restrictive. If it does, bind of more loosely.

  10. SLEEVES: With U.S. size 7/4.5 mm (12” [30 cm]) circular needle or DPN (or the same size as used for the body) and MC, pick up sleeve stitches from waste yarn (including st cast-on under the arm where applicable) 58 (62, 68, 70, 76, 80) st. Pm at center of underarm to mark BOR. Knit in the round in stockinette st for 2” (5 cm).

  11. NEXT ROUND: K2, k2tog, k to 4 st before m, ssk, k2 (2 st dec).

TRANSITION to CC at the start of the next round. Work 14 rounds in CC, then 5 rounds in MC, then another 14 rounds in CC. At the same time, work a decrease round as indicated approximately every 1.5” (3.8 cm) until sleeve measures approximately 17” (43 cm) from underarm, and you have the following number of stitches: 39 (42, 48, 48, 57, 60). Note: You may need to work one more or one less dec to reach these counts to end with a multiple of 3. On the last row, transition to U.S. size 5/3.75 mm (12” [30 cm]) circular needle or DPN (or two sizes smaller than used for sleeve) for cuf and begin ribbing as follows: [p2, ktbl] rep between brackets to end of round. Continue in established ribbing (repeating [p2, ktbl] on every round) until cuf measures 3” (7.6 cm). Bind of in pattern with medium tension.

REP for second sleeve.

  1. NECKLINE: With U.S. size 5/3.75 mm (16–24” [40–60 cm]) circular needle (or needle two sizes smaller than that used for the body), pick up stitches around the neckline in the following manner: Pick up every available stitch along the shoulders and back, and approximately 6 of every 7 st along the front, ending with a multiple of 3. Work neckline in [p2, ktbl] ribbing in the round until neck ribbing measures 1.5” (3.8 cm). Bind of in pattern with medium tension.

  2. WEAVE-IN ends and wet block, soaking thoroughly, then rinse well. Pin flat and allow to dry completely, turning as needed for even drying.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

A) BUST: 37.8” (41.3, 45.8, 80.2, 54.7, 58.2) (94.4 cm [103.3, 114.4, 125.6, 136.7, 145.6])

B) SLEEVE AT WIDEST POINT: 12.9” (13.8, 15.1, 15.6, 16.9, 17.8) (32.2 cm [34.4, 37.8, 38.9, 42.2, 44.4])

C) TOP OF SHOULDER TO UNDERARM: 9” (9.4, 9.9, 10.2, 10.7, 10.9) (22.76 cm [23.98, 25.2, 26.01, 27.23, 27.64])

D) LENGTH OF BODY FROM UNDERARM: 17” (43.18 cm) prior to blocking

E) LENGTH OF SLEEVE FROM UNDERARM: 20” (50.8 cm) prior to blocking

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