Casual Pullover
This knit top is great for anyone, anywhere, anytime. The casual sweater from Bernat Yarns has a textured stitch that drapes beautifully when you wear it. Knitters of all skill levels can enjoy making this easy knit pattern. Create multiple sweaters in your favorite colors so that you'll always have something comfortable to grab as you head out the door. This lightweight knit sweater pattern can be worn all year round. It can easily transition you from spring to summer and from fall to winter.
If you love this pattern and want more knit sweaters, you need to see these stunning 25 Free Knitted Sweater Patterns for Women.
MATERIALS:
- Bernat® Handicrafter Cotton (50g/1.75 oz/73 m/80 yds) (see below for # of balls needed) OR Bernat® Satin (100 g/ 3.5 oz/ 149 m/ 163 yds) (see below for # of balls needed)
- 5 mm (U.S. 8) Knitting needles
- 4 stitch holders
SIZES:
If you're using Bernat Handicrafter Cotton Yarn, use this formula. For these sizes, you need this many meters of yarn:
- XS/S = 1345 m
- M = 1465 m
- L = 1585 m
- XL = 1830 m
- 2/3 XL = 1950 m
- 4/5XL = 2190 m
Since Bernat Hanidcrafter Cotton Yarn contains 73 meters in each ball of yarn, take the total meters you need based on the size of the sweater you want to make and divide by 73. So if you're making the large sweater, take 1585 divided by 73 and you'll need about 21 balls of yarn.
If you're using Bernat Satin yarn, use this formula. For these sizes, you need this many meters of yarn:
- XS/S = 1470 m
- M = 1600 m
- L = 1735 m
- XL = 2000 m
- 2/3 XL = 2135 m
- 4/5XL = 2395 m
Since Bernat Satin yarn contains 149 meters in each ball of yarn, take the total meters you need based on the size of the sweater you want to make and divide by 149. So if you're making the large sweater, take 1735 divided by 149 and you'll need about 12 balls of yarn.
MEASUREMENTS:
To fit bust measurement:
- Extra-Small/Small 28-34 ins [71-86.5 cm]
- Medium 36-38 ins [91.5-96.5 cm]
- Large 40-42 ins [101.5-106.5 cm]
- Extra-Large 44-46 ins [112-117 cm]
- 2/3 Extra-Large 48-54 ins [122-137 cm]
- 4/5 Extra-Large 56-62 ins [142-157.5 cm]
Finished bust:
- X-Small/Small 35 ins [89 cm]
- Medium 39 ins [99 cm]
- Large 43½ ins [110.5 cm]
- X-Large 47½ ins [120.5 cm]
- 2/3 X-Large 56 ins [142 cm]
- 4/5 X-Large 64 ins [162.5 cm]
GAUGE:
19 sts and 24 rows = 4 ins [10 cm] in stocking st.
23 sts and 28 rows = 4 ins [10 cm] in Rib Pat.
ABBREVIATIONS:
Alt = Alternate.
Beg = Beginning.
Cont = Continue(ity).
Dec = Decrease(ing).
Inc = Increase 1 stitch by knitting into front and back of next stitch.
K = Knit.
K2tog = Knit next 2 stitches together.
P = Purl.
Pat = Pattern.
P2tog = Purl next 2 stitches together.
P2togtbl = Purl next 2 stitches together through back loops.
Psso = Pass slipped stitch over.
Rem = Remaining.
Rep = Repeat.
RS = Right side.
Sl1 = Slip next stitch knitwise.
St(s) = Stitch(es).
WS = Wrong side.
INSTRUCTIONS:
The instructions are written for smallest size. If changes are necessary for larger sizes the instructions will be written thus ( ).
Back:
- **Cast on 101 (113-125-137-161-185) sts.
- 1st row: (RS). *K2. P2. Rep from * to last st. K1.
- 2nd row: *P2. K2. Rep from * to last st. P1.
- Rep last 2 rows for Rib Pat until work from beg measures 4 ins [10 cm], ending with a WS row.
- Place markers at each end of last row.
- Cont in pat until work from beg measures 16 ins [40.5 cm], ending with a WS row.
- Shape raglans: Keeping cont of pat, cast off 6 (7- 8-10-12-14) sts beg next 2 rows. 89 (99-109-117- 137-157) sts.
- Work 2 (2-0-0-0-0) rows even in pat.
Sizes XS/S and M only:
- Next row: (RS). Sl1. K1. psso. Pat to last 2 sts. K2tog.
- Work 3 rows even in pat.
- Rep last 4 rows 4 (0) times more. 79 (97) sts.
All sizes:
- Next row: (RS). Sl1. K1. psso. Pat to last 2 sts. K2tog.
- Next row: Work even in pat.**
- Rep last 2 rows 17 (26-31-31-19-10) times more. 43 (43-45-53-97-135) sts.
Sizes XL, 2/3XL, and 4/5XL only:
- 1st row: (RS). Sl1. K1. psso. Pat to last 2 sts. K2tog.
- 2nd row: P2tog. Pat to last 2 sts. P2togtbl.
- 3rd row: As 1st row.
- 4th row:Work even in pat.
- Rep last 4 rows (0-7-13) times more. (47-49-51) sts.
All sizes:
Leave rem 43 (43-45-47-49-51) sts on a st holder.
Front:
- Work from ** to ** as given for Back.
- Rep last 2 rows 6 (15-20-22-19-10) times more. 65 (65-67-71-97-135) sts.
Sizes XS/S, M, L, and XL only:
- Shape neck: 1st row: (RS). Sl1. K1. psso. Pat across 20 (20-20-23) sts. K2tog. Turn. Leave rem sts on a spare needle. 22 (22-22-25) sts.
- 2nd row: P2tog. Pat to end of row.
- 3rd row: Sl1. K1. psso. Pat to last 2 sts. K2tog.
- Rep 2nd and 3rd rows once more. 16 (16-16-19) sts.
- Next row: Work even in pat.
- Next row: Sl1. K1. psso. Pat to last 2 sts. K2tog.
- Next row:Work even in pat.
- Rep last 2 rows 5 (5-5-6) times more. 4 (4-4-5) sts.
Sizes XS/S, M, and L only:
- Next row: (RS). Sl1. K1. psso. Pat 2 sts. 3 sts.
- Next row: Pat 3 sts.
- Next row: Sl1. K1. psso. K1. 2 sts.
- Next row: P2tog. Fasten off.
Size XL only:
- Next row: (RS). Sl1. K1. psso. Pat 3 sts. 4 sts.
- Next row: Pat 2 sts. P2togtbl. 3 sts.
- Next row: Sl1. K1. psso. K1. 2 sts.
- Next row: P2tog. Fasten off.
Sizes XS/S, M, L, and XL only:
- With RS of work facing, slip next 17 (17-19-17) sts from spare needle onto a st holder. Join yarn to rem sts: Sl1. K1. psso. Pat to last 2 sts. K2tog. 22 (22-22-25) sts.
- 2nd row: Pat to last 2 sts. P2togtbl.
- 3rd row: Sl1. K1. psso. Pat to last 2 sts. K2tog. Rep 2nd and 3rd rows once more. 16 (16-16-19) sts.
- Next row: Work even in pat.
- Next row: Sl1. K1. psso. Pat to last 2 sts. K2tog.
- Next row:Work even in pat.
- Rep last 2 rows 5 (5-5-6) times more. 4 (4-4-5) sts.
Sizes XS/S, M, and L only:
- Next row: (RS). Pat 2 sts. K2tog. 3 sts.
- Next row: Pat 3 sts.
- Next row: K1. K2tog. 2 sts.
- Next row: P2tog. Fasten off.
Size XL only:
- Next row: (RS). Pat 3 sts. K2tog. 4 sts.
- Next row: P2tog. Pat 2 sts. 3 sts.
- Next row: K1. K2tog. 2 sts.
- Next row: P2tog. Fasten off.
Sizes 2/3XL and 4/5XL only:
- 1st row: (RS). Sl1. K1. psso. Pat to last 2 sts. K2tog.
- 2nd row: P2tog. Pat to last 2 sts. P2togtbl.
- 3rd row: As 1st row.
- 4th row:Work even in pat.
- Rep last 4 rows (1-6) time(s) more, then 1st and 2nd rows once. (81-89) sts.
- Shape neck: 1st row: (RS). Sl1. K1. psso. Pat across (25-32) sts. K2tog. Turn. Leave rem sts on a spare needle. (27-34) sts.
- 2nd row: P2tog. Pat to end of row.
- 3rd row: Sl1. K1. psso. Pat to last 2 sts. K2tog.
- 4th row: P2tog. Pat to last 2 sts. P2togtbl.
- 5th row: As 3rd row.
- Rep 2nd to 5th rows (0-1) time more. 20 sts.
- Work 1 row even in pat.
- Proceed as follows: 1st row: (RS). Sl1. K1. psso. Pat to last 2 sts. K2tog.
- 2nd row: Pat to last 2 sts. P2togtbl.
- 3rd row: As 1st row.
- 4th row:Work even in pat.
- Rep last 4 rows twice more. 5 sts.
- Next row: (RS). Sl1. K1. psso. Pat 3 sts. 4 sts.
- Next row: Pat 2 sts. P2togtbl. 3 sts.
- Next row: Sl1. K1. psso. K1. 2 sts.
- Next row: P2tog. Fasten off.
- With RS of work facing slip next (23-17) sts from spare needle onto a st holder. Join yarn to rem sts: Sl1. K1. psso. Pat to last 2 sts. K2tog. (27-34) sts.
- 2nd row: Pat to last 2 sts. P2togtbl.
- 3rd row: Sl1. K1. psso. Pat to last 2 sts. K2tog.
- 4th row: P2tog. Pat to last 2 sts. P2togtbl.
- 5th row: As 3rd row.
- Rep 2nd to 5th rows (0-1) time more. 20 sts.
- Work 1 row even in pat.
- Proceed as follows: 1st row: (RS). Sl1. K1. psso. Pat to last 2 sts. K2tog.
- 2nd row: P2tog. Pat to end of row.
- 3rd row: As 1st row.
- 4th row:Work even in pat.
- Rep last 4 rows twice more. 5 sts.
- Next row: (RS). Pat 3 sts. K2tog. 4 sts.
- Next row: P2tog. Pat 2 sts. 3 sts.
- Next row: K1. K2tog. 2 sts.
- Next row: P2tog. Fasten off.
Sleeves:
- Cast on 53 (53-57-57-57-57) sts.
- Work 12 rows in Rib Pat as given for Back.
- Inc 1 st each end of next and every following 6th (6th-6th-4th-4th-2nd) row to 59 (73-91-77-103- 77) sts, then every following 8th (8th-8th-6th-6th- 4th) row to 81 (85-93-97-105-113) sts.
- Cont even until work from beg measures 17½ (18- 18-17½-17-16½) ins [44.5 (45.5-45.5-44.5-43- 42) cm], ending with a WS row.
- Shape raglans: Keeping cont of pat, cast off 6 (7-8-10-12-14) sts beg next 2 rows. 69 (71-77- 77-81-85) sts.
- Dec 1 st each end of needle on next and every following alt row to 27 (27-29-17-19-7) sts.
Sizes XS/S, M, L, XL, and 2/3XL only:
- Dec 1 st each end of needle on next 3 rows.
- Work 1 row even.
- Rep last 4 rows 3 (3-3-1-1) time(s). 3 (3-5-5-7) sts.
All sizes:
Leave rem 3 (3-5-5-7-7) sts on a st holder.
Finishing:
- Pin garment pieces to measurements. Cover with a damp cloth, leaving cloth to dry.
- Neckband: Sew raglan seams, leaving left back raglan open.
- With RS of work facing, K3 (3-5-5-7-7) from left sleeve st holder. Pick up and knit 14 (14-17-17-17- 19) sts down left front neck edge. K17 (17-19-17- 23-17) from front st holder, dec 2 sts evenly across.
- Pick up and knit 14 (14-17-17-17-19) sts up right front neck edge. K3 (3-5-5-7-7) from right sleeve st holder. K43 (43-45-47-49-51) from back st holder, dec 3 sts evenly across. 89 (89-103-103-115-115) sts.
- 1st row: (WS). K1. *P1. K1. Rep from * to end of row.
- Rep last row for Seed St Pat 3 times more. Cast off in pat.
- Sew left back raglan and neckband seam. Sew side and sleeve seams, leaving sides open below markers for side slits.
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nanashopper 240223 5
Sep 15, 2017
looking over the instructions for this casual pullover before I start knitting, and want to know why # of stitches on the back are different from # of sts on the front, when the same # sts are cast on. After first 23 rows, back has (sz XL) had 137 sts, and instructions say front has 71 sts! Help.
Lisa
Feb 28, 2021
It's not uncommon for the front of a sweater to have less stitches than the back due to shaping.
FireFightersMoM
Jul 19, 2017
I think this casual pullover is so pretty. I was a little worried when I started reading the feedback. So I read the problems and looked in the patterns. I am not sure if it had been corrected or people weren't really looking at it. Everything looks great to me and I will be putting this in my to do folder.
kittenev 0204929
Dec 12, 2016
I'm lost. I'm newish to knitting and this is my first sweater. I'm making a L one for my mom. In the instructions it says to fasten off and then if you go down it then says to slip stitches and fasten off again. I don't understand. Can someone explain more clearly?
Lisa
Oct 29, 2021
This is not a sweater I would recommend for a "newbie" knitter, it is rated easy by all free knitting but it is a more advanced pattern than that. The part of the pattern that is confusing you is the front, it's easier to think of it as two or more sections, you are actually working a left section and right section separately for the shaping of the front, this is not uncommon in knitting.
Lisa
Oct 29, 2021
This is not a sweater I would recommend for a "newbie" knitter, it is rated easy by all free knitting but it is a more advanced pattern than that. The part of the pattern that is confusing you is the front, it's easier to think of it as two or more sections, you are actually working a left section and right section separately for the shaping of the front, this is not uncommon in knitting.
The Designing Peng uin
May 10, 2016
I had no trouble putting the pattern into wordperfect to knit it - and one can always save the pattern and follow it from the net - it is an attractive sweater and so far I have had no problem following the pattern
Lisa
Mar 20, 2015
Bernat Handicrafter Cotton Yarn XS/S--1345 = 19 balls M--1465 = 21 balls L--1585 = 22 balls XL--1830 = 26 balls 2/3 XL--1950 = 27 balls 4/5XL--2190 = 30 balls Bernat Satin yarn XS/S--1470 = 10 M--1600 = 11 L--1735 = 12 XL--2000= 14 2/3 XL--2135 = 15 4/5XL--2395= 17
renatetideswell 37 21923
Dec 25, 2014
Is this supposed to be a normal k2p2 rib pattern, because the way it's written, the stitches are offset. Should line 2 of the pattern not start with the single stitch then go into the k2p2, rather than end with the single stitch?
kwietwon67 8872652
Apr 07, 2017
I noticed the same thing as I'm working on sleeves 1st. I followed the K2, P2 rib pattern and kept with the offset pattern at the end. As the rows starting increasing one stitch at each end (every so often depending on size)...I followed the offset pattern on the ends adapting to what would go next in keeping initial rib pattern intact. So if say I'm at an end with offset of 1 k (after doing the 2 prior stitches before the end as 2 p stitches) , I keep to that off set pattern as a rib stitch of one...Then when it's time to increase that end, I increase and keep next stitch as a K stitch too so now I have 2 more following the rib pattern (Hope this makes sense following, I know what I mean but finding it hard to explain on here!)
murpheysmom 471917 0
Nov 06, 2014
Seems as if Every thing I want to make has problems... sheesh. Whata shame
FaveCrafts Editor JL
Nov 06, 2014
Hi there! Do you have a specific question I can help you with? I'd be happy to help! Thanks - Julia from FaveCrafts
Teresahefer 021052 3
Jul 04, 2015
Please can you explain the pattern to continue after the rib pattern
FaveCrafts Editor JL
Jul 06, 2015
Hi there, Since this is an original pattern from Bernat Yarn - I suggest you contact them directly via their social media channels or website. Thanks! - Julia from FaveCrafts
Lisa
Sep 28, 2015
The entire sweater is knit in the offset rib pattern. Its what used be commonly referred to as a ribbed sweater. Hope this helps someone.
ekadow 8313872
Dec 01, 2013
I was going along great until #7" after the second cast off row the pattern seems to get off kilter. After casting off those 7 stitches what do I start with? If I start with one K and then continue with P2 , I end up with 2 pulls. Is it important to always end with one stitch? I am making the medium. Thanks Ellen Kadow
dgenesse 9785862
Nov 27, 2013
Ok, i'm lost. with an uneven # of stitches cast on, when I K2 P2, I ended up with one st left, so I knit it. but for row 2, I'm to P2 K2, ending again with an odd on, so I pearled it. but that won't line up. so is this indeed the pattern? The picture looks like its a K2 P2 all the way thru? Help
Lisa
Jul 11, 2014
You're suppose to end with 1 stitch left at the end of the row-its indicated in the pattern what to do with the last stitch at the end of each row. it will line up, if its done correctly, if it doesn't check your previous row for an error.
lewis2
Sep 08, 2013
Copying and pasting into Word is just one long document all run together in one paragraph - no line breaks. Too bad - I like this, but reformatting several pages of gobble-de-gook is a task I don't need. I already have several others the same. It used to work perfectly.
DRYCREEK51 9777720
Aug 25, 2013
I REALLY THINK THAT THE EDITOR SHOULD HAVE GIVEN US THE NUMBER OF OUNCES OF YARN. THAT WAY WE CAN USE OTHER TYPES OF YARN,ETC. SO, PLEASE LET US KNOW THE METERS DO NOT HELP. WE USE OUNCES IN THE US. THANKS
Lisa
Jul 11, 2014
to do a proper yarn substitution you must know the weight and yardage, so what been provided here is correct. You cannot make a successful substitution based only on the ounces of yarn-you'll run short or over. It is not necessary to come on here and make derogatory comments in caps about something that appears to be your own incorrect preference.
mcguirekathy 48830 10
Dec 05, 2012
Hi The needle size is size 8 or 5 mm. It is listed with the picture of the sweater not with the pattern. A mistake they made. Happy knitting. Kathy
Melissa Ryan
Oct 05, 2012
Hi all There have been some comments regarding how many balls of yarn you need to complete this pattern Hope this formula helps you If you're using Bernat Handicrafter Cotton Yarn use this formula For these sizes you need this many meters of yarn XS S-- M-- L-- XL-- XL-- XL-- Since Bernat Hanidcrafter Cotton Yarn contains meters in each ball of yarn take the total meters you need based on the size of the sweater you want to make and divide by So if you're making the large sweater take divided by and you'll need about balls of yarn If you're using Bernat Satin yarn use this formula For these sizes you need this many meters of yarn XS S-- M-- L-- XL-- XL-- XL-- Since Bernat Satin yarn contains meters in each ball of yarn take the total meters you need based on the size of the sweater you…Read More want to make and divide by So if you're making the large sweater take divided by and you'll need about balls of yarn Hope that helps
AMCARDLE61 6756109
Oct 03, 2012
has qustion been answered as to how many balls of yarn needed for casual pullover? it is exactly the pattern I have been looking for for some time. am looking forward to making as soon as I have correct amount of yarn. Linda McArdle
lizbailey91 153874 3
Aug 22, 2012
This sweater looks great, but as previously asked how many balls of yarn do you need?
JanfromSanFran
Dec 15, 2010
I found the patterns! The rib pattern is right after the cast on: RIB PATTERN: (On odd number of stitches) 1st row: (RS). *K2. P2. Rep from * to last st. K1. 2nd row: *P2. K2. Rep from * to last st. P1. Rep last 2 rows for Rib Pat etc And the seed stitch is 4 lines from the bottom of the article. SEED STITCH PATTERN: (On odd number of stitches) 1st row: (WS). K1. *P1. K1. Rep from * to end of row Hope this helps. I agree that it looks delightful, I am just starting to think about knitting it. I hope you will post a picture of yours.
danebred 3162840
Mar 12, 2012
How many balls of yarn does this sweater take. My calculation comes out to an awful lot and the sweater will cost a fortune. I am doing something wrong! Help!
mscindynichols 009 0025
Oct 31, 2010
I sat down with my needles and yarn to start this delightful looking sweater, and much to my dismay, could not find the pattern. I thought I read through all the directions and could not find it. So with that, I need further help with this. Thank you Pattern stitch please!
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