Orton Overalls

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Orton Overalls

Orton Overalls
Orton Overalls

Little ones will love the freedom of movement while exploring in these oversized overalls. The simple design can be worked up quickly for that last minute play date. The straps have button fastenings which allow them to be removed easily and you can choose to make them with or without the frill detail. Super cute? I think so too!

Construction
The body is made first in one piece by working back and forth in the round. The legs are then created, followed by the front and back bibs and straps, which are all worked directly onto the body of the overalls. The ruffle is worked onto the front bib. There are no seams to sew in this pattern.

Sizes
0–3 months 3–6 months 6–12 months 1–2 years 2–3 years
The sizes are color coded. Follow the instruction and stitch count highlighted in the relevant color for the size you are making.

Overall Measurements
Chest – 19 20 21 24 25 inches / 48 50 53 60 63 cm
Length – 15 16.5 18 20.5 21.5 inches / 37 41 45 51 54 cm

Special Stitches
Increase, abbreviated INC – Work a HDC into the front loop and then work 2HDC into the back loop of the same stitch.

Pattern Notes

  • The turning Ch1 or Ch2 does not count as a stitch.

Techniques
  • Working into the back loop only
  • Working into the front loop only

Easy

Materials List

  • Yarn

    • DK Weight

    • Paintbox Cotton DK in the shade 442 Dusty Rose and 463 Summer Sky Blue (100% Cotton)

    • 137 yards / 125 meters per 1.7 oz / 50 g ball


    Find this yarn on lovecrafts.com or visit yarnsub.com for comparable alternatives. You can use any DK weight yarn in the fiber of your choice. Make sure to check your gauge before you begin.

    Yarn Amounts

    • 330 410 465 550 660 yards / 302 375 426 503 604 meters


  • Gauge

    • 4mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge

    • 4x4 inches (10x10 cm) = 16 HDC sts and 14 rows


  • Hook

    • 4mm, 3.5mm (used for the SC edging only)


  • Notions

    • Yarn needle, scissors, stitch markers and 2 buttons


    Note – The buttons should measure approximately 0.6 inch (1.5 cm) in diameter.

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. Let’s get started.
    Using the 4mm hook, start by chaining 77 81 85 97 101.

    Round 1 (RS) – Work a HDC into the 2nd chain from the hook and then work a HDC into each chain. Join with a SlSt into the top of the first HDC. (Make sure that your work is not twisted.) Ch1 and turn. 76 80 84 96 100 sts

    Round 2 (WS) – Work a SC into the first stitch. Work a DC into the second stitch. Continue to alternate SC and then DC until the end of the round. Join with a SlSt into the top of the first SC. Ch1 and turn. 76 80 84 96 100 sts

    Round 3 – Working into the back loops only, work a HDC into each stitch. Join with SlSt to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 and turn. 76 80 84 96 100 sts

    Round 4 (Increase Round) – *HDC 8 9 9 11 11. 2HDC. Repeat from * 7 more times. Work a HDC into the last 4 0 4 0 4 sts. Join with SlSt to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 and turn. 84 88 92 104 108 sts

    Round 5 – Work a HDC into each stitch. Join with SlSt to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 and turn. 84 88 92 104 108 sts

    Rounds 6 to 26 32 34 38 38 – Repeat round 5. 84 88 92 104 108 sts

  2. We are now going to start the first leg.
    Round 1 – Work a HDC into the first 42 44 46 52 54 sts. Join with a SlSt to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 and turn. 42 44 46 52 54 sts

    Round 2 – HDC2tog. HDC 38 40 42 48 50. HDC2tog. Join with SlSt to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 and turn. 40 42 44 50 52 sts

    Round 3 – Work a HDC into the first 19 20 21 24 25 sts. Work 2HDC into each of the next 2 sts. Work a HDC into the last 19 20 21 24 25 sts. Join with a SlSt to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 and turn. 42 44 46 52 54 sts

    Round 4 – Work a HDC into each stitch. Join with a SlSt to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 and turn. 42 44 46 52 54 sts

    Round 5 – Repeat round 4. 42 44 46 52 54 sts

    Round 6 – Working into the front loop only, HDC into each stitch. Join with a SlSt to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 and turn. 42 44 46 52 54 sts

  3. Complete the leg frill.
    Round 1 – *HDC. INC. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Join with a SlSt to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 but do not turn. Remain on the right side.

    Round 2 – Work a DC into each stitch. Join with a SlSt to the top of the first DC. Fasten off.

  4. Start the second leg.
    Working on the right side, leaving a tail of approximately 7 inches (17.5 cm), attach your yarn to the first unworked stitch at the crotch.  Repeat the instructions for completing the first leg. You will have a small hole where the two legs join each other. This can easily be stitched up using the tail of your joining yarn.

  5. Create the front bib.
    Lay the overalls flat, front facing, with the joining seam at the back. Mark out 32 32 34 38 40 sts centrally on the top of the body. Turn the overalls over and do the same on the back. Check you have 6 8 8 10 10 sts between the front and back markers on each side of the overalls. If you don’t have this amount then adjust your markers to achieve this. We want to ensure that the front and back bibs are centered. You should have 30 30 32 36 38 sts between markers on the front and back, 6 8 8 10 10 sts between each marker on the sides and the 4 sts that the markers are placed in. This totals 76 80 84 96 100 sts.

    Row 1 – Starting in the marked stitch (front of overalls facing you), attach the yarn. Ch1 and then HDC2tog across this stitch and the next one. Work a HDC into the next 28 28 30 34 36 sts. HDC2tog over the last 2 sts (the last stitch is the marked stitch). Ch1 and turn. 30 30 32 36 38 sts

    Row 2 – Work a HDC into each stitch. Ch1 and turn. 30 30 32 36 38 sts

    Row 3 – HDC2tog. HDC 26 26 28 32 34. HDC2tog. Ch1 and turn. 28 28 30 34 36 sts

    Rows 4 to 9 9 11 15 15 – Repeat row 2. 28 28 30 34 36 sts

    Row 10 10 12 16 16 (Create the buttonholes) – HDC 1 1 2 2 2. Ch1, skip 1 st. Work a HDC into each stitch until you have 2 2 3 3 3 sts remaining. Ch1, skip 1 st and work a HDC into the last 1 1 2 2 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. 28 28 30 34 36 sts

    Row 11 11 13 17 17 – Work a HDC into each stitch and chain space. Ch1 and turn. 28 28 30 34 36 sts

    Final Row – Working through the front loop only, HDC into each stitch. Fasten off. 28 28 30 34 36 sts

  6. Complete the back bib.
    Complete the back bib by repeating rows 1, 2 and 3 of the front bib.

    Rows 4 to 12 12 14 18 18 – Repeat row 2. At the end of the last row, do not fasten off. 28 28 30 34 36 sts

  7. Start the first strap.
    Row 1 – HDC 3 3 4 5 5. Ch1 and turn.

    Row 2 – Work a HDC into each stitch. Ch1 and turn. 3 3 4 5 5 sts

    Repeat row 2 until you have completed approximately 13 13 15 17 18 rows. Fasten off.

    Note – The strap should sit comfortably behind the front bib (allowing for a button) and your overalls should measure approximately 12.5 14 15 18 18.5 inches / 31 35 38 45 46 cm from the top of the shoulder (top of strap as worn) to the crotch. If need be, adjust your strap length to achieve this.

  8. Work the second strap.
    Working on the wrong side, count in 3 3 4 5 5 sts from the opposite side and attach your yarn. Ch1 and repeat the process as we did for the first strap. Fasten off.

  9. Complete the front frill.
    The frill is worked into the remaining loops from the final row of the front bib. With the top of the bib nearest to you, attach the yarn into the first stitch, leaving a 4-inch (10-cm) tail. Ch1 and HDC into the same stitch.

    Row 1 – Work INC. HDC alternately across the row. Ch1 and turn.

    Row 2 – Work a HDC into each stitch. Ch2 and turn.

    Row 3 – Work a DC into each stitch. Fasten off leaving a 4-inch (10-cm) tail.

    The front frill will conceal the buttonholes. Use the tail ends to attach the side of the frill to the edge of the bib.

  10. Complete the edging.
    Using the 3.5mm hook, working on the right side, attach the yarn to a stitch at the side between the bibs. Ch1 and SC into the same stitch. Work a continuous row of SC all around the top edge of the overalls. As a rule, work a SC into each stitch or into the edge of each HDC row. Stitch count does not matter but try to keep your stitches neat and consistent. When working around the outer corners of the bib and straps, work 3SC into each corner. At the end of the round join with a SlSt to the first SC and fasten off.

  11. Finishing off.
    Weave in your ends and sew on your buttons.

Credit:

Reprinted with permission from Lovely Little Stitches by Karen Petry.. Page Street Publishing Co. 2024. Photo credit: Tanya Zeiss.

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